Sunday March 31st 2024 Sidmouth to Branscombe (and back)

Today brought perfect conditions for walking with broken cloud cover and a nice breeze.  It was going to be a long walk today from Sidmouth to Branscombe and back, a total of over 14 miles. This was assuming that I was fit enough to manage that distance. My contingency plan was to just walk to Weston Mouth beach (the halfway point) and see how I felt there as to whether I would then continue on to Branscombe. My issue today being that Lou, my other half, had been advised not to drive for a few weeks for medical reasons so I had no option but to walk back to my car as no lift was available.

I had long planned on doing this walk but had hastily arranged for it to be today as the weather had been unsuitable for the last few weekends. It didn’t matter that it was Easter Sunday but what did matter was that it was the first day of BST (British Summer Time) and the clocks had gone forward an hour the previous night giving me an hour less sleep, that was bad planning.  However, on the flip side, I now had an hour of extra daylight in the evening, giving me more time to finish my walk before darkness would creep in, bonus.

On arriving at Sidmouth and being quite early (most sensible people were probably lying in to make up for the lost hour) I managed to park my car on the roadside parking area on the hill next to Jacobs ladder beach. As an added bonus (being the skinflint that I am) it was the last day of free parking before the 1st April when charging starts for the season.  I don’t know why, but I always get quite a buzz when I get free or cheap parking.  Maybe it’s because I begrudge paying the ridiculous amounts that they charge in the tourist season. Surely it’s not just me that feels this way.

I was feeling great about doing this walk today and full of enthusiasm, that is until I walked around to the main promenade from Jacobs ladder beach. Words that were much stronger than oh heck, but used in a very similar context, came out of my mouth.  Normally, on regular visits to Sidmouth, I just stand on the Promenade and take in the beauty of the red sandstone cliffs, admiring their colour and grandeur, but not today, today they looked huge and daunting like a giant red roller coaster of steep ups and just as steep downs.  Today those cliffs just looked bigger and bigger as I walked along the prom towards them, even the distraction of seeing a seal playing in the sea didn’t detract from what lay ahead of me.

On reaching the end of the promenade I made my way over the river Sid on the new bridge and up through the houses to the main path.

The first ascent began straight away with a steep climb through a field and on through even steeper woodland with lots of steps. The views back towards Sidmouth and beyond were very impressive in the clear morning light, I could see as far as Berry head near Brixham. The floor of the woodland was a carpet of bluebell leaves with their flower stalks beginning to appear. I could only imagine what this place was going to look like in a few weeks’ time.

On reaching the summit of Salcombe hill the path levels out for a short while until you reach the Frog stone, which needs no further explanation other than, well, it’s a big rock shaped like a frog. What more can I say. It did tickle me though and I was impressed by how much it did resemble a frog. The views eastwards towards Branscombe from this point were equally as impressive, as was the descent that now faced me, dropping away down to Salcombe mouth. That was a lot of steps to go down, steps that were made for people with much longer legs than me. It was a killer descent on my aching knees.  The thought of having to walk back up here later was not a happy one.

At the bottom of this hill there was a gate, with a path leading down to a beach called Big Wellington beach, (strange name for a beach). I was going to make a detour down to this beach but quickly realised that I would actually need a pair of wellies to get through the mud bath of a path that led down there, maybe that’s why it was named as such.

I decided against getting muddy and followed the coast path inland across the field to where a bridge crossed a stream in Salcome Regis valley.  Another climb up a steep field greeted me after crossing the bridge followed by an even steeper climb on a zig zag path up to the top of Dunscombe cliffs. There were a couple of nice stopping points along the zig zag path with lovely views back across the valley towards Frogstone rock.  I must say I do question some peoples thinking though. The valley looked so tranquil with all the new greens of spring, but the owner of a solitary house across the valley has painted the walls of their house bright yellow and it stood out like a sore thumb making it a real blot on the landscape.

The path levelled out again at the top with fields to the left and cliffs to the right. In the corner of the last field there is a bench with amazing views eastwards towards Weston Beach and Branscombe. From here the path heads inland around Lincombe before gradually dropping down into Weston Mouth beach.  This is a quiet, secluded beach of pebbles and shingle. Another path from the Donkey sanctuary links up with the coast path here bringing a few hikers with it. There are no Facilities here.

I had my lunch on the beach and decided that as daylight wasn’t an issue now and I was feeling  good, I would continue to Branscombe and then retrace my steps back to Sidmouth.  The path climbed steeply from the beach up to the top of Weston cliffs where field and reasonably level clifftop walking were welcome after the steep climb.

Before dropping into Branscombe the path follows a track inland and out of sight of the sea for what seems like a good couple of miles. This stretch was a little boring and monotonous and I was glad to eventually drop into Branscombe.

I didn’t stay in Branscombe for long as I had come seven and a quarter miles and had the same to walk back.  I quickly got the boring bit out of the way then enjoyed the relatively flat field walking towards Weston mouth.  The steep steps back down to Weston mouth took their toll on my knees and I was beginning to feel quite tired.

On reaching Weston beach I realised I hadn’t packed my spare water, and I had no snacks left. I was getting really thirsty at this point, and I knew I still had over three miles to go with two big ascents ahead of me.

Tiredness and thirst became a real issue over those last three miles, even to the point of me thinking I might have to get help.  The last ascent back up to Frogstone rock was a real killer and I found myself stopping every few yards as my legs were turning to Jelly and felt like lead weights.  Eventually after what seemed an eternity, I got back down into Sidmouth in what was now dusk.

went straight to the Morrisons Local shop and bought some water and chocolate. I found a bench on the promenade in the now dark, drizzly conditions and devoured my water and chocolate. Stupidly, within a few minutes I felt so much better again and walked back to my car with ease.

Lessons were definitely learned from my experience. I need to make sure I have a plentiful amount of water in my backpack along with lots of high energy snacks.

The main lesson learned though is not to push myself so hard and walk so far, particularly at my age.  The second half of my return journey was not a pleasant or enjoyable experience in any way.  Any future sections of the walk shall be of no more than ten miles including the return journey, and far less on difficult and demanding terrain. I have gone against everything I said at the very beginning of my blogs to the point of not enjoying this walk at all towards the end.