March 23rd 2025 – Kimmeridge Bay to Flowers Barrow and Back (via Tyneham)

Back at Kimmeridge again, early on a Sunday morning, so it was lovely and quiet. This time I would be walking Westwards through the Lulworth Ranges. I had checked online to make sure they were open for public access before setting off, otherwise my journey would have been a complete waste of time.

I had a great drive down in my new camper. The trouble now though is that, when parking in such a lovely spot, with amazing sea views, the temptation is to say sod the walk and just relax and chill out in the camper with a nice cup of coffee.  It’s a good job I’m really motivated to do the walk.

On the plus side I had the coming back to look forward to, where I could chill out with a coffee AFTER my walk.

Heading westwards out of Kimmeridge I was soon walking past the oil well with its single nodding donkey and an information sign explaining all about it.

Immediately past the oil well is the security gate leading onto the ranges where there are yellow markers that you must stay between as they guide your way along the path.  There are signs warning people not to stray from the path as there could be unexploded ordnance.

The path starts climbing, gently at first, getting steeper as one gets closer to Gad cliffs. The views were stunning in all directions, but I have to say that Gad cliffs were spectacular. I’d never heard of them before.  On reaching the top of the cliffs there were lovely views inland across an unspoilt valley (due to it being within the Ranges) in which the village of Tyneham is nestled.

The path eventually descends quite steeply down past Pondfield Cove and into Worbarrow Bay.   I must say though, it’s quite difficult to concentrate on your footing while on the descent because the views in front are stunningly distracting!  All the chalk cliffs towards Lulworth and beyond come into view and looked amazing, all the Gorse on the hilltops and valley sides was bright yellow and, to cap it all, the sea was a lovely, bright turquoise colour, probably caused by the eroded chalk from the cliffs. It all looked very Mediterranean, I mean, like I would know, I never go abroad.

I have to say Worbarrow Bay is one of those idyllic places that you just know you’re never going to forget. The whole setting, the colour of the sea and the peacefulness of it all come together beautifully. It’s not the most accessible place which probably adds to the feeling of peace and solitude. You have to arrive via the coast path or walk down a long track from Tyneham village, and it is only accessible, in any case, when the ranges are open for public access.

In order to prolong my stay, I decided to have my lunch (veggie sausage roll) there, even though it was only 11am.

The next stage of my walk was to get to the top of Flowers Barrow which was above the far end of Worbarrow Bay.  The path climbs from the moment you leave the beach, getting steeper and steeper as you get nearer the summit, In fact there is a rope to help one get up the final few yards as the path is sooo steep!  You really don’t want to lose your footing here because there’s no stopping you rolling all the way back down if you slip. On the plus side if you need to keep stopping for a breather (like I did) the views looking back over Worbarrow and beyond were stunning.

The top of Flowers Barrow is the end of a long ridge line and there are the remains of an old Iron age settlement with unexpected 360-degree views for miles.

Now ‘what goes up must come down’ is how the old saying goes and, as this was as far as I was going today, I knew I had to go back the way I came. Trust me, that rope was far more appreciated going down than it was coming up, with loose stones underfoot and what seemed like a steeper than 1in1 gradient to initially descend.  I even put all my camera gear away for the descent so as to have my hands free in case I fell.

On reaching the bottom I now had to follow a stone track inland along the valley, passing some tank targets, to reach the village of Tyneham.

I’m guessing most people have heard about Tyneham, the village that was evacuated during the second world war for troops to train in house to house combat before the D-Day landings.  After the war was over it was decided that the villagers wouldn’t be allowed back, and the village would remain part of the Lulworth ranges.  Today the village is more of a tourist attraction with public access only when the ranges are open.

The church is intact, as is the schoolhouse and the tythe barn and all can be entered. The rest of the houses are in various states of dereliction, some are accessible, and others fenced off for safety reasons.  What is interesting is there are information boards at each property   showing photos and giving detailed information of the last families to live there and what the properties were used for.   I’m so glad I visited as it made for a very interesting and informative afternoon in a historical and beautiful setting.  There is a car park and toilets and a coffee kiosk within a few yards of the village for visitors who don’t want to arrive via the coast path. Do check online though for details of when the ranges are open for access.

There is a footpath from the village straight up the valley side leading back on to the coast path at Gad Cliffs, again staying between the yellow markers to avoid any live ammunition.  One thing I have noticed on this walk are the number of sheep grazing freely on the ranges and yet you never hear of them treading on unexploded ordnance and exploding into a shower of lamb chops.  They’re just lucky I guess.

I was glad to finish my climb out of the steep valley and get back on to the coast path where the rest of my walk would be downhill back to Kimmeridge. The rain that was forecast never appeared which was a bonus and I was spurred on to finish my walk by the thought of sitting in my camper, relaxing with a nice cup of coffee looking out at the lovely sea views.

This walk was very scenic, interesting and enjoyable. Memorable moments were Gad cliffs, Worbarrow Bay, the views from Flowers Barrow, Tyneham village and of course my cup of coffee sat in my camper.

The total distance walked was just short of 8 miles, though it didn’t feel that long probably due to the amount of interest en-route.  The elevation gain was 1700 feet and yup it felt like it climbing Flowers Barrow.